{"id":3656,"date":"2026-10-22T02:49:19","date_gmt":"2026-10-21T18:49:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/?p=3656"},"modified":"2026-10-22T02:49:19","modified_gmt":"2026-10-21T18:49:19","slug":"what-are-the-common-materials-used-for-deep-drawn-metal-parts-4085-f9cdda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/2026\/10\/22\/what-are-the-common-materials-used-for-deep-drawn-metal-parts-4085-f9cdda\/","title":{"rendered":"What are the common materials used for deep drawn metal parts?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hey there, let\u2019s cut to the chase\u2014if you\u2019re here, you\u2019re probably deep in the weeds with deep drawn metal parts, whether you\u2019re a design engineer sourcing for a medical device, automotive component, or even a small-batch consumer gadget. As someone who\u2019s been running a deep drawn metal parts supplier for over 15 years, I\u2019ve seen every material under the sun get tossed into a drawing die, and trust me, picking the wrong one will waste weeks of prototyping, blow your budget, and turn a tight deadline into a disaster. Today, I\u2019m breaking down the most common materials we work with, why we reach for each one, and the stuff to watch out for\u2014no fancy jargon, just straight talk from someone who\u2019s got the dents on our press brakes to prove it. Deep Drawn Metal Parts<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

First up, the OG: Carbon Steel. This is the workhorse of deep drawn parts, and for good reason. It\u2019s cheap, super easy to form, and strong enough for almost any non-corrosive application. Wait, don\u2019t roll your eyes\u2014carbon steel isn\u2019t just \u201cbasic metal.\u201d We usually work with low to medium carbon grades (A36, 1008, 1010, 1020) because high carbon steel gets too brittle when drawn. Think about parts like appliance housing brackets, automotive fuel pump housings, or even the small shells for power tools we draw all day\u2014this stuff bends and stretches without cracking, which is huge when you\u2019re pushing a sheet of metal into a complex shape in one or two draws. The only catch? It rusts. So if your part\u2019s going outdoors or in a wet environment, you\u2019ll need a finish\u2014zinc plating (that\u2019s electrogalvanized steel, or EG for short) is the go-to for most of our customers because it adds a thin, protective layer without messing with formability. We\u2019ve drawn thousands of EG steel parts for outdoor lighting fixtures, and the finish holds up perfectly as long as the customer tells us early we need to spec it. Pro tip: If you\u2019re cutting corners on cost and don\u2019t need super high strength, 1010 steel is your guy\u2014it\u2019s softer, so it draws smoother, and we see less scrap from split walls, which means lower costs for you.<\/p>\n

Next, Stainless Steel. This is the one that stops us in our tracks when corrosion matters. I can\u2019t count how many times a customer has come to us saying, \u201cI need stainless but it\u2019s too hard to draw\u201d\u2014hear that, because it\u2019s true. Most deep drawn stainless is 304 or 316, not the 400 series, because 400 is way more rigid and prone to cracking when you stretch it. 304 is the workhorse stainless\u2014mild corrosion resistance, easy to weld, and it draws pretty well for a non-ferrous (wait, no, it\u2019s ferrous, but the chromium content makes it different from carbon steel). 316 is the fancy version for medical or marine parts\u2014it has molybdenum, so it resists saltwater and harsh chemicals way better. But here\u2019s the thing: stainless work hardens as you draw it. Meaning, the more you stretch it, the stiffer it gets, so you can\u2019t just yank it into shape in one pass. We usually have to add intermediate annealing steps when we\u2019re doing deep draws on 304 parts\u2014heat the metal up to soften it again so it doesn\u2019t crack mid-process. That adds a little time and cost, but for parts like surgical tool housings, food processing valves, or marine hardware, it\u2019s non-negotiable. I once had a customer who tried to use 304 without annealing for a deep drawn fuel filter housing\u2014they ended up with 20% scrap because half the parts split down the side, and they missed their launch date. Lesson learned: if you\u2019re using stainless, plan for annealing unless your part is super shallow.<\/p>\n

Then there\u2019s Aluminum. This one\u2019s tricky because it\u2019s lightweight, corrosion-resistant (natural oxide layer, no plating needed), and draws like a dream\u2014if you get the right grade. We work mostly with 1100, 3003, and 5052 aluminum for deep drawn parts. 1100 is the softest, cheapest, and easiest to form\u2014perfect for shallow parts like food cans, beverage caps, or battery cases. 3003 is a little stronger, so it\u2019s great for parts that need more rigidity, like heat sinks or automotive trim. 5052 is the workhorse for marine and aerospace aluminum\u2014it\u2019s way more corrosion-resistant than 3003, and strong enough for parts like marine instrument housings. The catch with aluminum? It\u2019s soft, so it can scratch super easy during drawing and handling. We use Teflon-based lubricants for drawing aluminum instead of the heavy greases we use for steel, because thick greases leave residue that\u2019s a pain to clean off, especially for food or medical parts. Also, aluminum has a lower melting point, so we have to be careful with tooling heat\u2014if the die gets too hot, it can mar the part surface. We once had a line worker crank up the press temperature too high on aluminum battery casings, and we ended up with 100 parts ruined from discoloration. Moral of the story: don\u2019t skip the lubrication or temperature checks for aluminum.<\/p>\n

Wait, what about Copper and Copper Alloys? Yeah, we don\u2019t do a ton of these, but when we do, it\u2019s for specific electrical or decorative parts. Pure copper (110 copper) is super soft and draws really well\u2014we\u2019ve made small deep drawn terminals for electronics, like the contacts in your phone charger, out of it. But it\u2019s expensive, so most customers reach for brass or bronze alloys instead. Brass (usually C2600, also called cartridge brass) is the go-to for electrical connectors, decorative hardware, and even audio components. It\u2019s formable, conductive, and has a nice gold tint if you don\u2019t plate it. Bronze (C510, phosphor bronze) is stronger, so it\u2019s good for parts that need to stand up to repeated bending\u2014like springs in switches, or small gears. The problem with copper alloys? They\u2019re super sticky, so they gall (that\u2019s when the metal sticks to the die surface) really easy. We use lubricants with extreme pressure (EP) additives for drawing brass, and we have to polish our dies extra smooth, or the part will have big, ugly marks. I remember a customer who tried drawing brass electrical terminals without EP lubricant\u2014they ended up with a batch where half the terminals had die marks, and they had to scrap the whole lot. Cost them thousands, just because they cut corners on lubricant.<\/p>\n

Now, the stuff you might not think of: Specialty Alloys. We work with these for really specific use cases, like medical implants (titanium!), aerospace components (Inconel, Hastelloy), or high-temperature industrial parts. Titanium is a big one these days\u2014patients love it for hip implants because it\u2019s biocompatible, and it draws pretty well, though it\u2019s more expensive than stainless. But it\u2019s also super strong, so you need heavy-duty presses and sharp dies to draw it. Inconel and Hastelloy are for parts that have to withstand 1000\u00b0F+ temperatures, like gas turbine components. These are tough\u2014they don\u2019t stretch much, and they work harden like crazy. We almost always use intermediate annealing for these, and we have to slow down the draw speed to prevent cracking. These are niche, but if your part is in a rocket or a pacemaker, these are the materials you\u2019ll need.<\/p>\n

Wait, let\u2019s talk about what not to use, or when to avoid a material. For example, don\u2019t pick high carbon steel for deep draws\u2014yes, it\u2019s cheap, but it\u2019s brittle, so it will split. I once had a new customer bring us a prototype made of high carbon steel for a 2-inch deep draw, and we tried drawing it, and it split before we even hit 1 inch. They had to re-spec to 1020 carbon steel, which cost them a little more per part, but they got a functional prototype. Also, don\u2019t use 400 series stainless for deep draws\u2014again, too brittle, prone to cracking. We had a customer who insisted on 410 stainless for a food processing valve, and their first batch was 30% scrap from split walls. They switched to 304, and scrap dropped to less than 1%.<\/p>\n

Now, why does the material choice matter more than you think? Let\u2019s break down the tradeoffs you\u2019re probably weighing: Cost vs. Performance. Carbon steel is the cheapest, but only if you don\u2019t need corrosion resistance. Stainless and aluminum are pricier, but they eliminate the need for plating sometimes, which saves money long-term. Formability vs. Strength. Soft materials (1010 steel, 1100 aluminum) draw easier, so lower scrap, but they\u2019re weaker. Harder materials (5052 aluminum, 304 stainless) are stronger, but you need more careful tooling, maybe annealing, so higher upfront costs. Finish. If your part is visible (like a consumer appliance), aluminum\u2019s natural matte finish is nice, but stainless is shinier. Carbon steel needs plating to look good.<\/p>\n

At the end of the day, material choice is the foundation of a good deep drawn part. I\u2019ve seen customers overcomplicate it\u2014they\u2019ll spec a super expensive alloy for a part that just needs a cheap carbon steel, or skimp on a finish that would have doubled the part\u2019s lifespan. As a supplier, our job isn\u2019t just to draw your part\u2014it\u2019s to give you straight, honest advice on what will work for your application, not just what\u2019s trendy. For example, last month a customer came to us wanting a deep drawn enclosure for a solar panel, and they initially spec\u2019d 316 stainless. I told them 304 EG steel would work just as well, cost 40% less, and hold up perfectly for outdoor solar use. They saved over $10k on their first run, and the parts are performing great. That\u2019s the kind of value we bring\u2014no upselling, just real talk.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re still not sure which material is right for your part, don\u2019t overthink it. Send over your specs: how deep is the draw, what\u2019s the application (outdoor, medical, food? Does it need to be conductive? Rust-resistant?), how many parts do you need? We can help you pick the material that balances cost, performance, and manufacturability, without the guesswork. Stop wasting time on prototypes that get scrapped because you picked the wrong metal. Reach out, tell us what you\u2019re working on, and we can lock in a quote that fits your budget and timeline.<\/p>\n

Industrial Enclosures and Housings<\/a> References:
\n1.ASM International. (2020). Forming of Metals: Deep Drawing of Steel Alloys. Materials Park, OH: ASM International.
\n2.Dietz, A. G. (2018). Metal Forming Practice: Deep Drawing of Aluminum and Alloys. Journal of Manufacturing Processes, 32, 456-463.
\n3.National Association of Manufacturers. (2021). Deep Drawing of Stainless Steel for Industrial Components. Manufacturing Engineering Journal, 156(3), 78-85.
\n4.Kalpakjian, S., & Schmid, S. R. (2022). Manufacturing Processes for Engineering Materials (8th ed.). Pearson Education, Inc.<\/p>\n

\n

Zento Trilium Metal Tech Co., Ltd.<\/a>
Zento Trilium Metal Tech Co., Ltd. is one of the most reliable deep drawn metal parts manufacturers and suppliers in China, featured by quality products and good service. Please rest assured to buy bulk deep drawn metal parts made in China here from our factory. Customized orders are welcome.
Address: Room 1113, Building 1, Chentang Science and Technology Park, Hexi District, Tianjin
E-mail: info@zntmetal.com
WebSite: https:\/\/www.zntmetal.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Hey there, let\u2019s cut to the chase\u2014if you\u2019re here, you\u2019re probably deep in the weeds with … What are the common materials used for deep drawn metal parts?<\/span>Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":571,"featured_media":3656,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[3619],"class_list":["post-3656","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-industry","tag-deep-drawn-metal-parts-4178-fa1650"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3656","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/571"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3656"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3656\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3656"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3656"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3656"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.gegbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3656"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}